Spanish at Salinas

Before heading out of town for the weekend, Steph and I met up for a dinner date on Thursday. We chose tapas restaurant Salinas because it was in a convenient location and the New York Times had given it a very good review on the day we were choosing where to eat. Even though the review was given by interim critic Eric Asimov [while we wait for the Times to choose and announce who will take over Sam Sifton's spot], I felt the 2-star review was well thought out and inspiring enough for us to give it a try.

It may usually be overlooked, but I was a fan of the crusty bread that was placed on each table. It was served with a white bean ancho dip that was velvety smooth. We decided to go with all small plates because the ingredients were more interesting than those in the entrees. First up we had the Brussels sprouts, broccoli, and cauliflower with mint yogurt. Next was a crispy flatbread with Mahon cheese and honey. Both dishes were very good but a little small. They got bigger (and even better) as we went on. The veal cheek and wild mushroom croquettes were a great representation of the Spanish Basque regional cuisine they were trying to nail. The croquetas were large and amply stuffed. Next we tried the octopus because I remembered it from the restaurant review. Octopus and potato is a typical pairing in this cuisine, but never have I seen it done like this with the potato puréed and the octopus sliced thin in crudo-style coins. Because I'm not afraid of any food, we ordered the tripe, which was served in a tomato based stew with chorizo, ham, paprika, and crunchy chickpeas. I don't know how they created crunchy chickpeas, but they were a great match for the slimy tripe. If you can get past the texture and idea of tripe (stomach) this was a very good dish. We also ordered the potato side dish. I thought the waiter was going to lose points for this one, but then they arrived and were so perfectly crisped and covered with a spicy brava sauce. I thought it would be boring, but it turned out to have all the flavors I was looking for.

I don't want to fail to mention the non-food elements of this dinner. There was a great wine list and a very attentive waiter who helped us choose one that ended up being perfect. I would try to go on a nice night when they pull back the retractable roof in the back of the restaurant for a nice indoor/outdoor experience that will only enhance the food. It may be a restaurant of the moment, but don't expect to find the trendy crowd here. The restaurant was filled with middle aged people who I assume we're Chelsea residents. That may not sound exciting, but it's a good indication this place will be around for a while since it is relying on people who follow food over fad.